I have always wanted to try a banya - a traditional Russian steam bath. What is the particularity of these types of spas, you ask?
Besides the fact the steam rooms are much hotter than a regular sauna (typically around 70°C!), you also get to experience something that, without any context, might sound completely ludicrous but really does feel great, I promise - getting professionally slapped by a Russian manwith leaves.
In anage-old wellness ritualcalled ‘parenie’, a skilled banya attendant called ‘banshik’ or steam master, uses fragrant bundles of leafy branches called veniks to perform a rhythmic thermal massage. The banshik directs aromatic steam onto the body, gently tapping and swooshing the veniks to stimulate blood circulation, promote detoxification, and provide a deep sense of invigoration and stress relief.
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Although the ritual has always fascinated me, it wasn’t thehealthbenefits that inspired my desire to try it. To be completely honest, my curiosity was first piqued when I saw a photograph of banya-goers wearing bannaya shapkas (banya hats), a head protection made of wool that’s in some sort of cone.
There was something oddly intriguing about the idea of being slapped with leafy branches while wearing a woolen bell-shaped hat. Instantly, I knew I had to experience this for myself.
So, I set off to Banya No.1 Hoxton in Islington, London’s first and only Russian banya, to make my quirky dream a reality. Tucked away on the lower floor of an unassuming building, the spa is both quaint and cosy, offering a unique escape from the city above.
I was immediately taken care of by a lovely Ukrainian woman who guided me through my entire session. I was asked prior to arriving to bring my own swimwear and flip flops to avoid being charged for it, which I did.
Unlimited towels, in addition to a banya hat and a robe, were provided free of charge. After changing in the dedicated area for women, where lockers were also provided free of charge, I was directed towards the parilka, the steam room where water is thrown on hot stones in the oven to create intense heat and steam.
Sporting my banya hat, which made me look slightly ridiculous but well-prepared, I gleefully braced myself for my first authentic Russian treatment, ready to sweat, steam, and maybe survive.
Intense is certainly one way of describing the heat. While in a sauna, you can typically seat for sit for 15 to 30 minutes, inside the parilka, this seemed impossible at first.
My body was instantly put into a state of shock as I had never encountered heat like this in my life. After what felt like three excruciatingly sweaty minutes (though, let’s be honest, it could have been 30 seconds), the Ukrainian lady ushered me over to a spot where buckets of cold water dangled ominously overhead.
"What did I get myself into?" I instantly thought. Ordering me to stand under one of the buckets, the lady poured the water on my steaming body.
The first few seconds sent my then freezing body into a deeper state of shock, which gradually gave space for a surprisingly pleasant sensation. This cold shower was a preparation for the other extreme part of the banya - the cold plunge.
Thanks to the cold shower I had endured, I was able to soak my entire body into the cold plunge for a good minute before my limbs started to feel pain. The Ukrainian lady anticipated the shock my body would feel, and invited me to sit while offering some water.
I had all sorts of new sensations rushing through my body, and fortunately, I had a private booth where I could unpack all these feelings. I was offered some herbal tea and ordered traditional Russian/Ukrainian food, which is a plate of potato variniki (my favourite!) and a plate to share with cured meat, pickled food, and of course, chopped onions and potatoes.
I was then called for the treatment I had long been waiting for - parenie. At banya no.1, the parenie ritual’s banshik uses fragrant bundles of birch, oak, and eucalyptus twigs as the venik.
This ancient practice, often referred to as ‘shvitz’ in the US or ‘platza’, involves rhythmic waving and gentle tapping with leafy branches inside our superheated steam room, followed by cold water immersion. The Parenie treatment is not just a physical experience, it’s a guided thermal ritual steeped in tradition.
This process pushes you out of your comfort zone, which is said to relieve stress, promote detoxification, and strengthen the immune system, along with offering numerous other reported health benefits. I quickly realised that no amount of research could have prepared me for what was about to happen.
Within minutes, I was flat on a wooden bench, being rhythmically slapped by a towering Russian man wielding a fragrant bundle of leaves. If I had previously believed that simply sitting inside the parilka was intense, this experience took things to a whole new level.
The venik felt surprisingly hot, yet when it was pressed against my head, it brought a sense of calm. At one point, the banshik placed the venik on my feet, and I could actually feel my skin tingling from the heat.

Still, the immediate sense of relaxation that followed was remarkable. The way the venik was tapped against my body, both my back and stomach, was gentle, nothing like the harsh whipping one might imagine.
You might wonder how it felt to be in a small sauna with a half-naked man, being handled with a venik in such a personal way. Honestly, I felt completely safe, at ease, and thoroughly cared for.
The banshiks at Banya no.1 are incredibly professional and considerate. My banshik even helped me up, looked after me as I braved the cold plunge again, and behaved like a true gentleman throughout.
After finishing the parenie ritual, which included both the cold water bucket rinse and the plunge, I found myself sitting quietly with a glass of water, momentarily speechless and lost in thought.
Parenie has many reported health benefits, including:
Detoxifying effect, cleansing the body of impurities
Helps alleviate jet lag, restoring energy levels
Improves sleep quality and combats insomnia
Eases hangover symptoms, promoting faster recovery
Supports weight loss when combined with a healthy diet
Provides a good cardiovascular exercise
Promotes muscle relaxation and relieves tension
Reduces stress and anxiety and builds resilience
Immediately after my parenie ritual, I felt a serene sense of emptiness. While my body and mind were in a meditative state, I was given a mud mask on my face and shoulders, while my pores were still open.
The mask, made of mud and salt from the Dead Sea, tingled some life back into me. Soon, the peaceful emptiness I had felt was replaced by renewed energy as I fueled my body with the food I had previously ordered.
Later on, I was called in for a 10-minute honey and salt scrub on my body. This organic spa treatment uses sea salt as a natural detoxifier, absorbing toxins and gently removing dead skin cells to cleanse your skin.
Honey moisturises and nourishes, infusing your skin with vitamins and minerals. I was nearly completely naked during this treatment, wearing nothing but the disposable underwear I was offered.
Once again, the level of professionalism put me instantly at ease, and my focus remained entirely on enjoying the duration of the scrub, which smelled heavenly. It’s no wonder the establishment has been visited by so many celebrities, includingJustin Bieber, Kate Moss, Liv Tyler, and Renée Zellweger, just to name a few.
I benefitted from the £115 Silver package, which included a three-hour banya experience with parenie, scrub, mud mask and herbal tea. For £75, you can enjoy a 2.5-hour banya experience with a thermal parenia ritual.
And if you fancy a simpler and cheaper option, you can opt for the £25 sauna and plunge session, which includes a 1.5h steam room and cold plunge experience.
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